Toronto summer dreamin' on such a winter's day

A friend recently included a link to my blog, in his recent post about Glanmore NHS in  his  wonderful photo and philosophy blog Making Eye Statements. Embarrassing, as I haven't been spending much time here this winter!

  So, thank you Larry, for that, and for two lovely June junkets to warm and welcoming Toronto. In memory of which, and by way of antidote to the winter storm keeping me safe in my study (but admit it, I don't need much encouragement to stay put) is  a little album of oh, the places we went.

Mother of All Links

Still caught up in the collector's urge, I had a look online for Parks Canada's 1980s publication about Gothic Revival architecture, part of their series based on The Canadian Inventory of Historic Building conducted in the previous decades. Written by one Mathilde Brosseau. Sadly, the only copy on offer, with my go-to friends at  Abebooks, priced out at $36 US, which, along with delivery costs from a California bookseller, put the volume somewhat out of my reach. Somehow, Parks Canada has managed to make all things possible, with a PDF online of the entire epistle.

Here's a link! And while you're waiting for the 210 pages to open, here is a threesome of buildings over which we agree. Despite the book's being almost totally dedicated to Gothic church architecture, they managed to record a trio of  home-grown (Prince Edward County) Gothic Revival favourites. I've recorded the Parks Canada expert's commentary; see if you agree.

The notes locate this checkerboard brick place in Milford. (It's really North Marysburgh, "upper Waupoos" I suppose.) Despite the 1863 date-stone above the box porch, the book dates it at ca.1850. "This house is of particular interest because of its fanciful fapade (sic. Tsk-tsk, government line editors) in which red bricks are alternated with yellow bricks to create a checkerboard effect. This interest in polychromy was apparently encouraged in Ontario by a wave of British immigration during the second half of the nineteenth century. The enclosed porch is also an indication of British influence. ALthough the Canadian climate would appear to have required this type of entrance, it had never been popular in this country. On the other hand, Louden's encyclopedia contains houses with small entrance porches like this in the form of a compact block against the centre of the building."

Not surprisingly, another of the  local domestic examples that caught the eye of the writers was this very familiar spot in town, once called 'The Grove' now a creative hub renamed 'Falconer House,' the new name an homage to a previous owner.

"The Grove, 111 Main Street, Picton, Ontario Material: rendered masonry Although at the present stage of research we are unable to establish the date of construction and the architect of this house, it can be said that the builder was well informed of developments in the Gothic Revival. At a first glance, it appears to be simply a small house with a central plan and pavilion roof, of which there are many examples in Ontario towns throughout most of the 19th century. However, the choice of decorative elements and their scale and proportions give particular value to this composition. The main entrance is highlighted by a small porch interrupted by elements resembling buttresses. The top of the porch has a triangular suggestion of the gable behind it. In the gable, there is a tiny bay window gracefully framed by a fretwork fascia board. Two narrow chimneys placed on either side of the gable highlight the composition of the centre of the building. "

The Parks Canada publication features a third PEC home, very close to Point Petre. It took some finding, identified in the book as "house in Athol." Hmmm. Looked familiar, being a very common Ontario farmhouse form. But I couldn't find it in my photo files. So I turned to The Settler's Dream. Turns out Stokes and Cruikshank had found the house noteworthy so on page 101 I was able to find the original owner - Scott. The house was located on Lot 14, Concession 4, South Side of the Lake, "on the way to Point Petre." Checking Belden's atlas of Athol township, I found a property under Scott owership. With Streetview, I drove up and down County Road 24 until I recognized it. Here's a link to their capture of the place. It's lovely, the owners have done nice things. Sadly, the day the camera slid past, there was a work bee of some sort, and the only image I can show you does not do justice to the c1850 (according to Brosseau) red brick home. Must pop down to the point sometime in the spring; cannot think it's the place to be after yesterday's 24 hours of snow and wind.

So this is what Mathilde Brosseau has to say about this lovely brick house: "The volume and proportions of this house express the happy medium and sense of balance arising from the Loyalist vernacular tradition. The Gothic Revival influence is present, but discreet, as indicated by the sober design of the pointed window placed in a very low-pitched gable; in addition,wooden fretwork trim runs along the roof edge and the verandah. The latter was doubtless added in the last decades of the 19th century when the coping saw replaced the craftsman's traditional toos, resulting in two-dimensional fretted wood designs instead of the highly plastic former profiles."

Is anybody still here? I'm having a great time, at any rate. And it's my blog.

The Official Government Word

 It's time. Haven't been to Ancestral Roofs in ages. Christmas plague. A couple of months busy over Spring and Summer deadlines, in preparation for a late spring junket 'over home.'  Thought I'd take a minute to celebrate those most pretentious of Victorian homes, the Second Empire variety. This in honour of a borrowed book, inscribed "Presented to Glanmore House (sic) National Historic Site on the occasion of their twentieth anniversary 13 June 1993 from Bellevue House National Historic Site." Aw, nice. Museum buddies.



Second Empire excess has been on my mind lately. Glanmore, my 'other' house, was featured in the Winter issue of  County and Quinte Living. The splendid photos of magazine photo editor Daniel Vaughan showed the world how Glanmore does Christmas. I had a little something to do with it, also, she added modestly. In any event, the article (and editor Catherine's pointed remarks) brought a lot of people who "had been meaning to come in for some time" into the museum for all the Christmas splendour.

The book is one of a series produced by Parks Canada back in the affluent 80s. The burst of scholarship and publication arose out of the ambitious Canadian Inventory* of Historic Building, a well that has been tapped for a host of authoritative books on Canadian Architecture, such as The Settler's Dream, a local favourite.
*If you follow the above link you'll see that Glanmore's photo appears. Cred, to be sure.

I've talked about this series before: I'm fortunate to have collected titles in Neoclassical, Palladian and Architecture of the Picturesque (which requires stepping out of traditional 'style' names, a la Robert Mikel et al). I have just entered into negotiations with Abebooks to purchase a "some water damage but completely readable" copy for myself.

Because this copy must go back to the G'more reference libray. The title is Second Empire Style in Canadian Architecture.  The superscript Canadian Historic Sites identifies the series, I suppose, but it is missing in the other titles I own. Here's a review of the series; looks like the total was to include 7 titles. Wonder if they made it. I will check. "Hey kids, collect all 7!!!"

This book in the Parks Canada series is written by Janet Wright and colleague Christina Cameron. Cameron is listed as first author, but I recognize Wright's name from Architecture of the Picturesque on my bookshelf.

Parks Canada is a wide-reaching entity. I despair, and include this Wiki clip for your edification:

The Canadian Register of Historic Places is supported and managed by Parks Canada, in collaboration with provincial and territorial governments and other federal bodies. The agency is also the working arm of the national Historic Sites and Monuments Board, which recommends National Historic Sites, Events, and Persons.

It's puzzling that there is no biographical information about the authors. Faceless government functionaries. They're more gracious. I LOVE that in their Acknowledgements they "express their thanks to the many persons who added pieces to the puzzle with patience and enthusiasm." Among those identified is my friend, and acknowledged local old house expert, Lois Foster.

Another thing that appeals to me is that one of my very favourite (one, I hasten to add) Belleville SE houses, the buff brick at the corner of Charles and Bridge Streets, is the 'cover girl.' Had me puzzled for a minute, as the photo captures the Charles Street facade, whereas the  Bridge Street frontage is more familiar to OEH commuters.

Here's a Streetview view of the side the Inventory types preferred. They missed out on the splendid chimney, included above for your enjoyment.

I won't go on about Second Empire style, or the toothsome examples I've come across in my rambles, because, well, I've already gone on about them. If you've discovered the recently added Search function on the blog, you can readily call them up. If not, here's a link to several posts. Gad, I do ramble on, don't I?

New-to-Me Newboro

Blockhouse, The Narrows

One of the delightful day trips from this past summer was a visit to Newboro. Okay, not a visit perhaps but a thorough inspection of the place, thanks to the well-researched and beautifully written Heritage Tour of Newboro, published by the Township of Rideau Lakes. Here's your copy Come along?

The brochure describes the significant position of the settlement during the days of the unimaginably difficult carving of the Rideau Canal from the unyielding granite of the area. The town that became Newboro grew on the isthmus separating the Rideau River system from the Cataraqui. All that remained to achieve the strategic water route was to claw through the granite ridge separating the two drainage systems, hidden beneath the underbrush here. The keystone of the Rideau Arch. So many died. "The Isthmus" became New Borough, then Newboro.

Union Bank building c1903

I'll begin with a confession. Any local reading this will already be on to me. The defensive blockhouse along the strategically important Rideau canal, shown above, stands at The Narrows, on the road into Newboro. I intended to walk down Lock Road to the equally important and evocative blockhouse in Newboro, but it was too hot. The Newboro blockhouse (c.1832) stands beside the Newboro Lock, unsurprisingly. Despite my failure to record the lovely spot on this visit, here's a sweet video which will take you there.

Above, along Drummond Street (County road 42 that races through town) is the Union Bank Building, dating from about 1903. I love how small town banks of the day still mustered up a bit of Romanesque Revival 'your money is safe in our fortress' styling. It's lovely, with the residential second storey's porches cuddled up in the ell.

adorable false front shops, sadly empty

Newboro was a trade and travel hub, with a toll ferry, then bridge, and rows of shops and lodgings, wharves and warehouses parallel to the canal. The railway came in 1868, connecting Newboro to the world.

Like many neighbouring areas blessed with forests and lakes, Newboro became a vacation destination early - and continues to be, with at least one historic lodge still welcoming guests.

the John Draffin House (c1860)

home of John Draffin, merchant

A word of celebration for those local historical societies who do the research and print the walking tour brochures. Without my copy of the Heritage Tour of Newboro, I wouldn't have ventured off Drummond down to Ledge Street, and would have missed this gorgeous stone home dating to about 1860, home of a well-to-do Irish immigrant, and merchant. This is the two-storey addition to the original John Draffin family farmhouse. Love the gigantic trees, perfect setting for dignified Italianate cornices and round headed upper storey doors. The balcony (a restoration success) overlooked the lake.

While I was venturing off the main thoroughfare, I also spent time with these two limestone lovelies. On Brock Street (wonder how many early settlements sport a Brock Street?) I visited the c1840 Court House, with its two matching entrances revealing its use as a school at one point. Though humble in proportions, the workmanlike effort with the uncoursed limestone rubble gives it great dignity.

Down the street, I paused at the 1861 St. Mary's Anglican Gothic Revival church, in its peaceful setting.

Here are a couple of the Ontario farmhouses along Main Street (I tend to use this term for this ubiquitous style of  gable end house with the centre gable - a faint nod to the Gothic -  because of my grounding in Marion Macrae. While the tour guide calls them Ontario cotttages, I reserve that term for the hip roofed cottage form, a vernacular Regency cottage. In case anybody really cares...Well, Shannon Kyles does.

Above, an unadorned version, with siding, and an altered doorcase with original fluted pilasters.
Below, a yellow-painted version with a lovely recreated verandah. And a delightful garden. Both with round-headed windows in the gable.

Main Street was once the busy thoroughfare of the village - in the days of steamers on the canal, the Westport and Sault Ste. Marie railway (1888 -an over-ambitious project, as it turned out), the cannery - memories of teams of  horses pulling heavily-loaded drays and carts, or well-appointed buggies for the well-to-do, all faded now.






Several large house/store structures, and two which resemble hotels standing along Main Street assist with time-travel back to the day. Although I don't have much information about this substantial green clapboard store, or the stuccoed symmetrical building (photo below) at the corner I expect they were busy spots in the day.

R.O.Legget house and shop c1870

And then there's the important house I didn't shoot - somehow the parked pick-up and thicket of evergreens so detracted from the dignity of 15 Main Street that I can only show you this peek thanks to Streetview. But the link is useful, so you can swan about town on your own.

This house is the c1865 Dominion House Hotel, built by Thomas Kenny and son. Good enough for Sir John A. to chalk up a visit. The semi-elliptical fan transom draws the eye, for sure. Great to see this early doorcase still intact.

Another old beauty along Main Street is the R.O. Leggett house and shop, dating from around 1870. Mr. Leggett operated a furniture and undertaking business at this address (closely allied trades) and a livery service, for transporting the bereaved and the departed. He housed the family in the red brick ell, with that lovely verandah in the trees. It's great to see the original shop front intact, with the well-worn sandstone doorstep in place.

1 Main Street

This simple Georgian structure with the low-pitched roofline, close eaves, small windows, the altered half-sidelight doorcase (is that a round fan above?) and the quarter fans in the wide eaves, sitting at the corner of Main and Drummond, close by the canal,  just has to have been an old inn.

Despite silence from the walking tour brochure, I remain convinced. The empty corner fills up with pedestrians and loaded wagons and carriages, as I study it. Someone loves it - even the end chimneys endure.

John Webster house 1860s

I wasn't able to do this fine Main Street house justice due to the setting sun behind it. The c1860 John Webster house is definitely a morning person - I was tempted to return for early day photos to capture its lovely restored clapboard siding, windows and sublime doorcase. This barn-red house was also the friendliest - I had a lovely chat with the owners although they were rushing off on an errand. The couple were real Newboro boosters; their enthusiasm, and their appreciation of the town's heritage, and their care for this home must be an asset in the village.

The pamphlet reveals that John Webster provided accommodation for travellers here. Nice entrance, with half-sidelights and rectangular transom. The guide explains that the fluted pilasters and 'bracketed shelf" above the door were after-thoughts. Love the round-headed casement window centre top.

fading bargeboard beside Kilborn's

The c1835 Col. John Kilborn home is a significant frame home that stretches along Drummond Street. I didn't grab a photo, as so much of the historic detail has been lost in the modernization to an apparently very successful 'Muskoka type' lifestyles store. Here's a Streetview peek, and a link to Kilborn's website. If you shop, I'd strongly recommend a visit.

The house next door, with its lovely doorcase and Gothic bargeboard, caught my eye. Not sure about the strapping. Needs help.

Stagecoach Inn c1855

Here's a glimpse of two other Newboro businesses. The stage Coach Inn is part of the Kilborn's in the Rideau complex, and looks very appealing indeed.

Historic Stirling Lodge

Newboro early realized its tourism potential. The Historic Stirling Lodge still welcomes guests, and offers itself as "a fishing destination", catering to American visitors. Its guest-book entries give a hint as to its heyday - Al Jolson and Eddie Cantor slept (and fished, one assumes) here.

There's a stone section of the inn, vying for attention with blue siding. Love the no-airs flat roof. Interested to see that it's also under the Kilborn's banner - a full-service destination that suggests significant vision, means, and hard work on someone's part!

a pleasant By Street home

John Poole Tett house c.1896

This house is said to have been built in around 1896. Tall windows, outstanding chimneys, decorative cornice trims and a Victorian bay window - oh and a gorgeous treed property overlooking the serene lake.

The guide reminds us that it was not always thus - in Newboro's industrial heyday, a furniture factory, then a tannery 'graced' the lakeshore. Newboro early realized that their lakeshore was much better used for dwellings than industries.

If I had more patience with genealogical records online, I would check to see what the family connection is, with Benjamin Tett, who built the mill at Brewer's Mills. Even if they're only distantly related, it's worth observing that the 'nation-builder' gene ran in the family.

view from Poole Tett house, over Newboro Lake

But I think I would rather contemplate the view from the sloping property with its encircling wall, or seated on the huge L-shaped verandah.

Now back to 'the main drag' as my father used to call downtown.

J.T.Gallagher house, c.1885

This amazing Gothic Revival style house was the first (and only) one to catch my eye when we drove through town years ago. It stands above the rest, literally, along busy Drummond Street. One tall house. The two-storey bay at the front, and the steeply pitched roof - those multicoloured roof slates!

This red brick wonder was built around 1885 by J.T.Gallagher. Its said that Gallagher engaged in some one-upmanship with John Poole Tett, who was building his home on By Street (photos above) at the same time. Who won?

Limestone quarried locally for the curvaceous lintels. Showy brackets in the dormer, in the gable with king post, and under the eaves.

Treillage-trimmed verandah. What a wonder this house is - and what wonders the owners, who appear determined to maintain its heritage elements.

Stage Coach Inn c.1855

So there you are. A visit to lovely Newboro. No harangues about heritage preservation. No diatribes about government abdication of responsibility for its National Historic Sites. No rants. Not one.

Just appreciation for this lovely historic spot which seems to be doing quite well, thank you very much.

We plan to be back next year. Perhaps we'll run into each other along Drummond Street.